We had lots of wonderful comments on our round quilt made with the civil war reproduction fabrics.
I thought maybe a tute was in order
Here’s the ruler, 9 degree ruler designed by Marilyn Doheny.
Of course you can get this from us, just click here.
The ruler comes with 20 patterns to create fans, dresden plates, swirling patterns, chevrons & also ideas on how to use these wedges in rectangular quilt too.
So, on to the tutorial!
My first project was a tree skirt.
I figured this took a little pressure off. Here’s how:
1. The ruler yields the round quilt with no center. The center circle, as seen in the civil war quilt, is appliqued in place once the circle is completed (similar to a dresden plate). So with the need for an open center via the tree skirt=score.
2. A tree skirt is not going to be sewn into a complete circle. Leaving that last seam unsewn guarantees the quilt will lay flat=score.
3. I decided on no matching points in my wedges. Going a little willy-nilly freestyle to keep the pressure off.
4. I used Moda premade bias binding-nuff said
That was my plan & now it was time to choose fabric!
I picked out 3 fabrics from our holiday fabrics that I liked together. They are not a collection, but they could be
We will need a total of 40 wedges to make our quilt (math warning). This is a 9 degree ruler, so it will require 10 wedges to get a 90 degree corner/quarter of our circle. 4 quarters, 10 each=40. (If you are using a different ruler, be sure you know how many degrees the ruler is; they make 10 degree rulers too…thus complicating this a tad, but I know you can handle it.)
The directions will tell you that you need 5 selvage to selvage strip sets. I got my 40 in 4 sets with plenty of leftovers. (but I am getting ahead of myself…I’ll get back to that).
Since I am not planning on any matching points where my wedges meet (versus the civil war round quilt that has matching points, free pattern from moda here), I needed to make my strip set equal 25 inches wide, in any combination of strips I desired. All strip sets are sewn the same, so you’ll stick with one layout.
The pressing of the strip set seams is not important in this layout, so I just picked a direction and stuck with it.
Once all 4 strip sets are complete, off to the cutting board we go…
Alternating the direction of the ruler, pick a reference point to cut your “up” wedge. I cut my “up” wedges with the 19“ line on the seam where the red & green meet. (sorry for blurry pics…hope you don’t hold it against me)
Every up wedge is cut using this reference point. Then, turning the ruler so that you use the cut edge of the last “up” wedge” find your reference point for the “down” wedge.
Here’s where I saved 2/3 yard of fabric: I used the cut edge of the last wedge as the first cut edge of the next wedge. In the printed directions, they do not do this. You can try it either way you like, but saving fabric is fabulous, and making 1/3 the cuts rocks a bit too.
Again, you will cut all “down” wedges using this reference point.
By keeping your up & down wedges lined up with the same reference point, the eye follows the curve around the tree skirt. (remember, the reference points are just for consistency in your cutting).
If you didn’t follow the reference point, you would just have a scrappier looking quilt….and that’s cool too!
Once your 40 wedges are cut, it’s back to the machine for more straight line sewing to make your 10 wedge quarters. Place right sides together & stitch away.
Once the quarters are stitched & pressed, attach the 4 quarters, leaving that last seam open for wrapping around the Christmas tree (or purse tree, as the case may be)
Use 1 long continuous bias cut binding to finish your edge. I started my binding on the straight edge of the flap, ran the outside edge, then up the other flap & around the inner circle, back to the beginning point.
To make a long strip of continuous binding, here’s a great tutorial video from Erin Compton of Simply EC
So, think outside the square & get a’ROUND’!
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